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Eravamo abituate a pubblicità di rossetti che mostravano donne dalle bellissime labbra decorate dalle più accese tonalità ai pastelli più tenui. E se la tavolozza dei colori poteva essere la più varia, c’era da scommettere che la bocca in mostra sarebbe stata perfetta: labbra tumide al punto giusto e dentatura perfetta aperta in un sorriso evocativo di gioia compiaciuta. Ma proprio dal mondo della moda, in genere rea di proporre canoni estetici inarrivabili, stanno arrivando bordate di non poco conto allo stereotipo della perfezione sbattuta in faccia chi perfetto non è e ha difficoltà a immedesimarsi nelle top model gonfie su labbra e seni ma secche in tutto il resto del corpo.
Evviva la differenza
Uno degli ultimi esempi di questa retromarcia è quello di Gucci Beauty che ha appena avviato una campagna piuttosto originale per i suoi nuovi rossetti. Per il lancio di tre linee di cosmetici per le labbra, il direttore creativo della maison, Alessandro Micheli, ha voluto Martin Parr, documentarista e sociologo della fotografia. Nessuno meglio di lui è stato ritenuto adatto a immortalare la diversità nei suoi aspetti più ironici e meno usuali della società.
Un inno all' inclusività
Una delle protagoniste di questa originale campagna è Dani Miller, la cantante della band rock Surfbort, dalla bellezza fuori dagli schemi. In particolare il suo sorriso risulta carente di denti visto che fra gli incisivi e i canini non c’è nulla: uno spazio vuoto mostrato con sfrontatezza e orgoglio. Il messaggio è questo: oggi essere belle significa essere autentiche, speciali, con i propri segni distintivi da mettere in evidenza anziché tenerli nascosti. Quel sorriso imperfetto rappresenta a pieno la nuova era inclusiva e senza schemi che vuole rivoluzionare il mondo della cosmesi per renderlo più aperto, libero e lontano dagli stereotipi.
La reazione sui social
L’effetto è stato dirompente e se l’intenzione era quella di attirare l’attenzione, Alessandro Micheli (che nella nostra galleria compare assieme a Jared Leto, entrambi con le labbra rosse) ci è riuscito, nel bene e nel male. Sul profilo Instagram dedicato al lancio dei rossetti sono piovuti commenti di tutti i tipi: da chi era inorridito e schifato a chi diceva “grazie” per la ritrovata libertà dal vincolo di un canone estetico scomodo e imposto. In ogni caso si è animato un dibattito, pro o contro, tra i follower che ha dato ragione al direttore creativo.
Gli altri esempi
Un discorso non dissimile da quello che propongono catene di abbigliamento come Zara che ultimamente stanno facendo ricorso a modelle “imperfette”, con pancetta e cellulite, ma anche piccoli modelli con sindrome di Down per la moda bimbi. Il tutto per proporre un’idea di moda inclusiva e lontana da proposte inarrivabili. Speriamo che il prossimo passo arrivi dalle passerelle internazionali del fashion dove ci auguriamo di vedere indossatrici che si nutrono come persone normali e mai più silfidi deambulanti.
